The Territory:
The territory around Ventimiglia di Sicilia is beautiful
and refreshing. The climate is mild and the history is long.
Because of the extensive vegetation, animals and water sources,
a nature reserve called the “Pizzo Cane, Pizzo Trigna,
and Grotto Mazzamuto” Nature Reserve, was established
in the year 2000 and it is comprised of the territories of
the communities of Altavilla Milicia, Baucina, Caccamo, Casteldaccia,
Trabia and Ventimiglia di Sicilia. Anyone today strolling
along the ancient mule trails of this silent and extraordinary
ambiance, which once was covered by a thriving forest, can
admire the native species which flourish in the Reserve along
with the diverse types of trees and floral displays which
alternate in the Mediterranean undergrowth.
The hilly mountain area around the Reserve, with its gentle
slopes well exposed to the sun, is rich in centuries old olive
groves which are symbolic of the landscape. The twisted and
majestic shape of the trees give testimony to a flourishing
rural economy which sinks its roots in the thousand year history
of the locale, as the nine olive presses and as many wine
presses which, according to a census, existed in the zone
of Ventimiglia di Sicilia at the close of the 19th century
demonstrate. The types of olives cultivated are many, with
some of ancient introduction and others more recent, some
adapted to oil production and others for table use. Among
these the most noteworthy is the so-called “alìva
calamignàra” which yields a very high percentage
of oil, matures late, and furnishes a tasty black table olive
called in the local jargon “passulùna.”
Although the area of the Reserve (comprising about 11,500
acres) has never been the object of systematic excavations,
the occasional discovery by scholars of numerous archaeological
finds testify that on these mountains mankind has lived from
the upper Paleolithic period in the Greek epoch to the Middle
Ages. An investigation the terrace of Castellaccio conducted
in 1997 and 1998 has disclosed a conspicuous number of finds
including oil lamps, ceramic fragments, tile fragments with
the upper striated sides decorated diagonally in typical Protobyzantine
style, and some coins from the Roman epoch.
The existence of early Middle Age inhabitation in the territory
of Ventimiglia is also demonstrated in Castellaccio of a Byzantine
seal with monogram dating to the late 7th century and some
Byzantine coins.
The dating of the coins (which covers an arch of time extending
from the middle of the 7th century until the middle of the
12th), and the discovery of an Arabic inscribed bronze foil,
confirm the inhabitation in Calamigna was occupied by the
Arabs and lived in at least until the first half of the 13th
century, when the wars of Frederick II of Svevia against the
Muslim rebels led to the depopulation of many of Western Sicily's
rural areas.
It was only some centuries later that the huge farming centers
founded from the 16th to 18th centuries in the island's interior
by means of Royal licenses to populate began to rise in these
extensive regions.
The land, abandoned for centuries, was brought to cultivation.
Thanks to the initiative of the feudal lords, the so called
“latifondi” were repopulated. In the 17th century
the Calamigna of the Middle Ages was revived thanks to a princess
bearing the name of one of the most powerful Sicilian families:
the Ventimiglias.
The Town:
From the surrounding mountains one overlooks a breathtaking
panorama that embraces the luxurious territory that at one
time formed the Calamigna fief (already documented during
the 15th century and deeded in 1503 by Lanza to Ventimiglia).
The ancient place name, indissolubly tied to the history of
the locale, is preserved to this day in the local linguistic
usage, whereby the local inhabitants of Ventimiglia still
refer to themselves as ”Calamignari.”
Although the bond uniting the Ventimigliesi to the ancient
agricultural region of Calamigna is strong, the birth of the
town is credited to Beatrice Ventimiglia, the noblewoman who
obtained the title of “Princess” from the Spanish
king Phillip IV, and on September 11, 1627 a license to found
a new center of inhabitation in the fief of Calamigna. Concessions
were made to the inhabitants of nearby villages in order to
populate the new town. These included land grant contracts
known under Roman law as “enfiteusi” and land
for construction of houses. The fief (which came to her as
a dowry in 1617 after her marriage to Girolamo Del Carretto,
Count of Racalmuto), survived with the descendants of the
dynasty Ventimiglia-Del Carretto until 1778, when it passed
to the Grifèo (Princes of Partanna) who held it until
the abolition of feudalism in Sicily.
The town is set in a fascinating natural ambience characterized
by the presence of centuries-old olive trees. The healthy
air, the fresh water springs, the temperate climate all contribute
to make Ventimiglia an ideal destination for relaxing sojourns.
It is about 40 KM southeast of Palermo at the foot of the
mountain Pizzo Cascio and on the River Leonardo above sea
level by 540 metres. There are around 2300 people living in
Ventimiglia di Sicilia and the economy is basically agricultural.
They grow olives, cereals, legumes, almonds, and the prickly
pears are so wonderful that, in October, they even have a
Feat of the Prickly Pear. They are also breeders of cattle
and pigs. The first Sunday of October is the Feast day of
their Patron Saint, Madonna del Rosario. On this day, they
have musical shows, a livestock festival and, of course, the
Procession. In the year 1863, the 'Di Sicilia' was added to
give it distinction from the Comune di Ventimiglia that is
in Liguria.
Ventimiglia's
oldest artifact in existence is a 17th century watering trough
that stems from the time of Princess Beatrice. It can be found
on Avenida Garibaldi, adjacent to the Square. In this area
there was once a beautiful castle that the Princess had erected
by workmen from Cimmina. Because it was modified over the
centuries, it is no longer the majestic palace that it once
was. In this same area there is also a Monument to the Fallen,
which was erected in 1932 thanks to a committee established
in the United States.
The
Mother Church rises on the square dedicated to Monsignor Giuseppe
Lo Cascio (who was born in Ventimiglia in 1870 and was its
spiritual guide for 33 years and a founder of the Popular
Party along with Don Luigi Sturzo). The church was built in
1628, scarcely a year after the founding of the town, and,
according to the wishes of Beatrice Ventimiglia, it was to
be dedicated to the Immaculate Conception. The bell tower,
which was not present originally, was added later.
The new City Hall was given a modern building on the high
part of Via Umberto, in which all the communal offices are
found.
Among
the infrastructures developed in recent years by the Communal
Administration (realized as a part of the recreational and
cultural renewal of Ventimiglia di Sicilia) are the swimming
pool and the astronomical
observatory inaugurated in 2001 and named for “Enzo
Brancati”.
The Processions:
At one time the liturgical and economic cycles were perfectly
integrated in Ventimiglia di Sicilia. In fact, the religious
festivals filled each month of the year, except July and November,
the months when the grain and olives, principal products in
the economy of Ventimiglia, were harvested.
The simulacrum, or image of the Holy Crucifix, carried in
the procession the third Sunday in May dates back to the time
of Princess Beatrice Ventimiglia. The devotion for the Holy
Crucifix is rooted in the town's traditional agricultural
vocation. The times are not long past when on the feast day,
the peasants returned from the countryside bearing bunches
of broad beans plants to ornament the vara.
The so called “Ferragosto”, on August 15th, is
the Feast of the Assumption and national holiday. The scene
shifts to one of the hills surrounding Ventimiglia to the
height on which the sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Grace
was erected in the 17th century.
Next is the Procession of Our Lady of the Rosary, venerated
and honored since 1696 by the people of Ventimiglia as their
primary Patron Saint and unique Protector. By ancient privilege
the procession of the Patron Saint takes place the first Sunday
in October. At one time the festival lasted for several days
and was accompanied by horse races with and without jockeys.
Today this religious event is made attractive by the composure
of the brothers and the faithful who precede the simulacrum,
and by the sea of people joined by the civil authorities in
procession.
For more on the Easter Celebrations in Ventimiglia di Sicilia,
check out the VHS Documentary: "The
Holy Week in Ventimiglia di Sicilia".
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